Georgetown Truck Stop: Best New Brunch Spot in Town

I ATE THIS

This charming little truck stop plopped on the corner of South Brandon and Denver Ave. South was buzzing with a contented crowd this morning, happy for a new spot to sate their indulgent brunch needs, and grateful for a friendly, neighborhood place providing amazing food.

What: Truck Stop Hash and Huevos Rancheros (plus an espresso and an iced American)

Where: Georgetown Truck Stop, 5327 Denver Ave. S., (206) 763-3337

When: this morning (Sunday 9:30 a.m.)

Official Tasting Notes: The huevos rancheros (pictured) was a rich egg scramble dotted with sausage and cheese, served atop a smokey pile of black bean chili (one caveat, the beans could have been cooked a little longer) with a generous dollop of sour cream. Delicious, but my fork kept poking into my brunch companion's succulent corned beef hash, served with one perfectly fried egg on top, a bed of spinach (which wilted nicely under the hash's heat), tossed with roast potatoes and yams. The juicy beef hash was not that strange, vinegary stuff you might have experienced, but was rich, falling-part tender, almost reminiscent of pulled pork.

We drank Lavazza coffee, perfect in both its espresso and Americano forms.

Under the capable new management of Stephanie Speer and partner James Zetterberg, this tiny restaurant, located in a small house on a residential backstreet in Georgetown, was pushing out artfully-made meals to feed the brunch crowd. Most impressively, a tiny kitchen crammed with three cooks fed the crowd from a four burner electric stove.

Stephanie earned her cooking chops at such well-loved bunch spots as Crave and the Green Cat Café, and if you're a fan of the Green Cat, the scramble and the house-made scones will bring back fond memories, perhaps even a bout of déjà vu. The couple took over this tiny house in February, and reopened in March with a third partner, Chuck Bassett, who helped out with startup costs. Everything is fresh-made, including the gorgeous baked goods: from almond scones to savory turnovers to eggy quiche cups to a black and a white chocolate muffin.

There's one four-top inside, but that's it--everyone else eats outside. You'll find an easy-going crowd of hipsters, goth musicians from bands like The Trucks and The Dandelion Junk Queens, as well as young families from Georgetown and nearby Highland Park.  A motley collection of lawn furniture seats about 20, with one gazebo like-structure that'll protect 8 diners from the elements.

"Another hundred square feet would really help her out," my dining companion mused, "if she is going to serve food like this." Meaning, the droves will come.
 
Cost: $20.13 plus tax and tip

Insider Tip: Every first Sunday of the month there's a sidewalk junk sale, with funky items like a mound of estate-sale watches, retro desk lamps, and a collection of wood cigar boxes. 

Open Monday-Friday 6 a.m.-3 p.m.; Sunday brunch opens at 9 a.m. Look for the Tonka Trucks out front.

Would I eat it again? This could be my Sunday brunch. Easy.

Photos by Peter Mumford.