Pian Pianino

Cafe Juanita alum Justin Neidermeyer grins out from a page in July's Food & Wine Magazine. Hair tousled, shirt sleeves rolled up. He's looking like a relaxed restaurant owner.

The caption: "At his restaurant, Pian Pianino, located below his apartment, Neidermeyer serves 10-course dinners three nights a week."

But if you call Neidermeyer for a reservation, he tells you his restaurant doesn't yet exist. His machine says that he's under construction, and that he's still only serving his infamous pasta at dinners at nearby Sitka & Spruce.

So, what now? Is Neidermeyer just taking his time opening (nice and slow, indeed) and leaving F&W (or perhaps One-Pot mastermind Michael Hebberoy, the article's author) caught with its/his pants down, or is Pian Pianino actually trying to make an opening splash while staying underground?

Let's assume that if/when Pian Pianino does open (or has opened), its food is fabulous (which I've heard the dinners at S&S are, but haven't been myself). The question is, who is the food for?

For reservations for one of Neidermeyer's dinners at Sitka & Spruce, call 251-7673. (Do not call Sitka & Spruce.) Seatings are at 6 p.m. and 8:30 p.m., Sunday and Monday evenings.