Adobo's All in the Family: A Conversation With Manila Cafe's Renee Bell

Seattle doesn't have many restaurants that have been around for 50 years, let alone ones that are still family owned and operated. Manila Café is one of these rarities. Seattle also doesn't have too many Filipino restaurants, so I was sad to hear from someone who works in the neighborhood that Manila Café was planning to drastically cut back their hours.

Originally opened in 1953 in the International District by Frederico and Sara Martinez, Manila Cafe moved from its spot in the ID to a couple of locales in West Seattle, before finally settling into its current location in a small strip mall by East Marginal Way in the industrial section of Georgetown. Two enlarged, antique black and white photos adorn the restaurants walls: one of Freddie and Sara Martinez sitting on a large rock, looking serenely out into the Northwest woods, and one of Freddie in his chef's whites and hat, peering out from the kitchen service window in the original café. Though Freddie and Sara have passed away, Manila Café is run by their granddaughter Renee Bell, a tiny energetic woman who takes orders, cooks, and somehow seems to know every customer's name.

When I went down to talk to Bell about the menu and hour changes last week, she cited an incredibly difficult financial year as the reason. She mentioned the snow storm at Christmas last year, which made the roads impassable and shut down the entire neighborhood for a week, as well as her food and supply costs, which have recently tripled. Sitting on the tables was a note to customers explaining that the restaurant will be closed until August 20 and, after that, Manila Café will be open Thursdays and Fridays, selling fried chicken, wings, and pizza by the slice from 11 am until sold out, Saturday from 12 pm to sold out, and closed Sunday through Wednesday. The note also read: "For us to continue to serve you our Filipino menu, beginning in September it will be available ONLY on Saturdays." Bell expressed sadness over having to cut back on the Filipino dishes, but, she said "This is just what we have to do right now. And I'll see our regular customers who come for that food on the weekends."

Voracious: What is your favorite ingredient?
Bell: Garlic

What do you think that says about your cooking?
Well, here at the restaurant it means that we make really good adobo. Our recipe has LOTS of garlic.

Do you still use your grandfather's adobo recipe?
Absolutely. The inihaw too--all of the Filipino recipes we use are my family's originals.

Do you have them saved somewhere? I'm picturing old, grease-stained pieces of paper.
Oh no, they're all up here. (Points to her head.) There's nothing written down. It's all passed down orally.

Wow.
I grew up in my grandparent's restaurant, that's where I learned everything. I still have regular customers who remember me as a kid from the restaurant. They come in and say, "I remember you when you just started walking."

Is there one dish you think everyone should know how to make?
Fried chicken.

That's pretty ambitious.
Well, everyone should at least know how to make a pot of rice.

What do you eat most when you're not at work?
My husband and I love to get Vietnamese food. I always get those bowls of grilled pork ribs.

Over noodles?
Oh no, never. (Looks at me like I am crazy.) Always over rice.

Do you cook at home? What's your favorite dish to cook for your family?
Because I cook so much here, I don't cook much at home. When I do, I like to make pork sinigang (a sour, tamarind-based soup). Or meatloaf. I really like meatloaf.

What was your favorite meal as a kid?
Inihaw beef. The same inihaw beef we make and serve today. (It's listed on the menu as "Freddie's Specialty.")

What's your favorite guilty pleasure?
Dessert. No matter where we go out to eat, no matter how much I eat, I always save room for dessert. But nothing with fruit--just cake and chocolate. I love a good chocolate lava cake.