Emmer & Rye Opens the Doors
They say a picture is worth a thousand words. And right now, the picture that I'm interested in is the one on the front page of the Emmer & Rye Web site -- the little orange flag in the top right corner that says "Now Open!"
That's right: as of last night, Emmer & Rye opened to the public and started serving chef Seth Caswell's version of seasonally inspired, locally derived cuisine.
All locavore greenwashing aside, what really has me excited is the menu -- the farro fries, the oysters with bacon and smoked porter mignonette, the apple membrillo served alongside the artisinal cheeses, cider-braised pork shoulder with collards and goat crepinette with black trumpet mushrooms and butternut gratin. Personally, I don't care where the stuff comes from or who raised my dinner so much as I do for the skills of the crew and the hands of the chef into which those ingredients have been delivered. If Caswell can make me some pork belly with chicories and heirloom beans that really knocks me back in my chair, he can raise his pigs on the moon and thicken his sauces with bald eagle eggs and I'll still be happy.
Reservations are being taken now at Emmer & Rye. And even though the place is new, you can bet I'll be there as soon as I can manage -- maybe not with an eye toward reviewing it (not yet, anyhow ... ), but just looking for some dinner.
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