Classic Manhattans at The Whisky Bar

Keith Allison, 2010.

There have been two fairly gaping holes in the core of Whiskey Wednesday since its inception, made not strictly out of personal distaste, but more out of predictability. The first of those is Belltown's Whisky Bar (notice the spelling), a venue I've received more inquisitive e-mails about than any other aspect of this column. The second is the Manhattan, one of the most universally recognizable cocktails that makes up the Holy Hexology of Mixology as insinuated by David Embury in the classic bartending guide The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks. Joining the Martini, the Old Fashioned, the Daiquiri, the Sidecar, and the Jack Rose, the Manhattan is a time-tested drink that any bartender worth their salt (or whatever preferred garnish) knows like the back of their hand.

Kitty corner from The Moore Theater, The Whisky Bar certainly lives up to its name in minor aesthetic details like Evan Williams earthstone jugs rigged to serve as lamps and a Jim Beam Black pool table in the back. However, the most legitimate claim to the title lies in nearly six cocktail menu pages full of whiskeys from all over the world.

Before plunging into the main course, I noticed that The Whisky Bar offers its own Whisky Crusta. This variation had far more bite to it than the Columbia City Theater's super-sweet faux pas, dropping the sugar from the rim to dusting a lemon rind wrapped around the interior of the glass. Mixed in with lime and Luxardo Maraschino, the bourbon still has little room to breathe, but an intense tartness gives you just enough pause to stop you from absentmindedly draining it.

I noticed "Classic or Custom Manhattans" at the bottom of The Whisky Bar's menu and my heart skipped a beat. I asked the bartender, with stars in my eyes, what exactly was meant by a "Custom Manhattan," and if he had any favorite permutations. My naivete was dashed upon a quizzical stare as he explained he just meant they'd make the cocktail with any variety of whiskeys or bitters. I didn't exactly know why I expected anything else, but I had to admit some hopes were dashed as I feebly asked for rye and Angostura.

The Manhattan was... a Manhattan. It didn't break down boundaries of taste or astonish with a labor-intensive preparation, but the familiarity of rye, vermouth and bitters felt right on the tongue. So to answer the question as to why Whiskey Wednesday didn't report on the Manhattan earlier, one more or less knows exactly what they're getting into with Frank Sinatra's preferred quaff. That's really one of the main draws of the Manhattan -- and so it is with The Whisky Bar.

The Whisky Bar caters to the Moore Theater post-performance traffic that doesn't want to slum it at The Nitelite. It has a crapload of selection for the discerning whiskey drinker, but at the end of the day you're there for reliability rather than an exotic night out. If you really, genuinely just want some whiskey? Don't bother with prestigious cocktail-crafters or hi-concept lounges with distractingly swank decor; go to The Whisky Bar and try out some half-shots.

I finished the night with a shot of Eagle Rare 10 Year. It was served neat and with the recommendation of the same bartender I'd dumbfounded with the Custom Manhattan query. The quick sip of single barrel corn whiskey sent me reeling with delight. Sometimes the best a bartender can do requires nothing but a bottle of fine liquor and a clean glass.