Greatest Hits and What You Missed: Ron Jeremy, James Beard, Dumplings, and Pig

"You know how whenever the federal government puts out a new budget or new income tax rules, there's always this B-roll footage shown on the news of some poor congressional staffer lugging around bound copies thicker than two phone books put together?

"Yeah, well that's kind of the stage we're at right now with the annual run-up to the James Beard Awards. A couple days ago, the venerable James Beard Foundation put out their big list of semi-finalists for the 2011 Chef and Restaurant Awards--the feel-good portion of the proceedings, where white jackets and beleagured owners from places like Anchorage, Indianapolis, and Minneapolis get to believe for a moment or two that they've got a chance at competing against the heavy hitters from Chicago, San Francisco, and NYC. And not to take anything away from these restaurants--at this stage of the game, it really is an honor just to be nominated--but every year there's this groundswell of food-writerly rumbling, wondering if this will be the year that some wild genius from out in the sticks unseats one of the Manhattan favorites for Best New Restaurant."

From this week's analysis of the newly released list of semi-finalists for the James Beard restaurant and chef awards.

"They say every house has a story, be it old, charmed, sordid, or scary. Whatever the story, it always reads kind of like a personal ad: 'Tiny cottage with bad wiring, cracked foundation, and asbestos needs TLC, nuclear family, and station wagon to regenerate to former glory.' Just the same, no burger joint, steak house, sushi train, or truck stop is immune to a little colorful past and character. Having that extra bit of funk or flair definitely adds to the overall experience (as long as the funk isn't a dead bug or stray hair) and sometimes even the quality of the food."

From this week's Eatside review of Red House Beer, Wine, and Tapas.