Reviewing the Review: Breaking Down Bread

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I really liked Afghan Cuisine and Banquet Hall, the subject of this week's review, but was befuddled by the bread.

I don't want to overstate my acquaintance with Afghan grain products, but when I envision Afghan bread, I picture a soft, stretchy oval, bubbly with bronzed knobs of dough. But the firm, uniform bread served at Afghan Cuisine is more focaccia than flatbread: It's notably thicker than the naans typically associated with southwest Asia.

That's an acceptable variation, according to Moe Muradi of Afghan Bakery in Surrey, B.C.

"It depends if you want it soft or you want it crispy," says Muradi, who describes his bread as "round and very thin."

According to Muradi, the critical components of Afghan bread are flour, yeast, salt, water, canola oil, and baking powder. A baker may add sesame seeds or cinnamon, but extra ingredients aren't necessary. "There is no flavor, just bread flavor," Muradi says.

Bread is very important in Afghan cuisine, which is brimming with dishes designed for sopping. "You can have bread with any kind of dish," Muradi says. "You can have it in the morning, you can have it with kebabs, you can have it as garlic toast."

And if you'd like to try it, Afghan Cuisine and Banquet Hall sells its bread by the bag.

Read the full review here.

Follow Voracious on Facebook & Twitter. Follow me at @hannaraskin

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