Oliver's Twist Makes Unwinding Easy

The Place: Oliver's Twist, 6822 Greenwood Ave. N., 98103, 206-706-6673 PHINNEY RIDGE

The Hours: Monday-Saturday 5-7pm, Sunday all evening.

The Digs: Cocktail-driven small plates restaurants crop up en masse in nightlife hot spots like Belltown, Ballard, and Capitol Hill. Oliver's Twist takes the same upscale bar formula and turns it into a friendly neighborhood spot, equally appropriate for a girlfriend gab session, a boisterous holiday gathering, or an adorable date night. All of these things were going on during a recent happy hour, the gales of laughter from the large seating area in the back carrying to the bar in the center, and even to the front lounge area, bringing seasonal cheer to everyone.

The brightness of the orange walls, covered in art of various media, contrasts with the low lighting. It all fits into what appears to be a master plan to create the ultimate neighborhood bar with decent food in a part of the city where there is a dearth of such things. The long space provides ample room to please everyone and the service matches that, courteous and attentive to the needs of each table, jovial and entertaining at the bar.

The Deal: The dollar off beer, wine, and food might help save a few pennies on the signature grilled cheese and tomato cappuccino (highly recommended), but the real treasure on the happy hour menu is the $2 you save on the impeccably poured, excellently curated cocktails. The discount applies to the Twist Classics--which includes my current favorite drink, the Presbyterian (bourbon, ginger ale, soda)--and the Oliver's Twist Cocktails, a variety of original beverages from the bar, many of which are named for characters from a certain Dickens novel, natch. The Duff and Blathers shows off the bar's best work, with black pepper tincture adding intriguing undertones.

The Verdict: Oliver's Twist nails the happy hour trifecta, enticing all comers to enjoy tasty beverages, nibble at small plates, and absorb general merriment for far longer than the scheduled hours of happiness. enough to just be a snack and begging for more to be ordered, ruining your dinner.

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