Make a Mess at Mr. Gyro's

In one of the few exceptions to the old 'order the specialty of the house' rule, the gyro is not my favorite item at Mr. Gyro's. Not that the gyro isn't quite good. Rather, it is that the endearingly messy lamb kabob plate is phenomenal. It's a mess to look at on a plate and it's a mess when you try to figure out how to eat it. Soft, warm pita bread in hand, you stare down the hummus--debating if you should dip the pita, or spread the chickpea mixture on to it. The mountain of little lamb chunks sit, under the cool, snowy cap of tzatziki. You contemplate the rice, the Greek salad, all sharing a giant plate with the meat and sauce. Somehow, you think, this will make its way into my mouth, but how? Honestly, though, it doesn't matter how you do it. Whether you open the pocket of the pita and try to stuff it whole, or if you try to make a tidy wrap out of it, whether you try to eat each component alone or mix them all into one big, gloppy, Middle Eastern spiced mélange: No matter what you do with the lamb kabob plate, it will taste great. Everything at Mr. Gyro's does.

The closet-sized spot embodies the term hole-in-the-wall, as Greenwood denizens are often lined up out the door for their meal here. The cooking is efficient, the service is quick, and you can rely on the guys behind the counter to be friendly and funny. Try this: After a visit or two, order 'my usual.' The guys will always take a stab at your favorite when they recognize a customer, which they often do.

Despite its diminutive size, Mr. Gryo's is stocked with a full menu of Middle Eastern fare. With the TV set to sports, the free tea always warm, and the spits turning, the folks at Mr. Gyro's turn out not only a mean gyro, but excellent schwarma, kabobs, fattoush, and a passable French fry. The fries, covered in feta cheese and chopped herbs, are like the lamb kabob plate, messy but wonderful. Just don't wear anything that's not washable.

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